Thank you Brazil for transporting me back to India!Ok, the background - We decided to celebrate the 3-day Memorial Day weekend and Husband's English birthday South of the Equator in the exotic country of Brazil. Yes, you read right; it was a three day trip! We spent a day+ in Sao Paulo and a day+ in Rio de Janeiro and the rest in transit. I am not kidding when I say that I could liken these two cities very easily to Bombay (not as densely populated though) and Goa respectively.
As soon as we stepped out of the airport, I was overwhelmed by the Indian welcome we got; taxi drivers jostling each other for your fare, micro CC motor bikes haphazardly parked in the parking lot, black-smoke-belching flat bed trucks on the highway, distances marked in "KMs" and not Miles, small cars packed full with passengers, people driving with car windows rolled down and using hand signals rather than indicators and ofcourse, rash driving!!!!! As the weekend progressed, we saw many more similarities, some not so welcome but all interesting nevertheless. Perhaps, it is the same picture in all developing countries! :)
Sao Paulo is very much a teeming metropolis complete with crowds, extreme wealth disparity, really sketchy areas, fabulously wealthy neighborhoods and luxury high-rises secured by electric fences (seriously!!!). Our hotel, Pestana Sao Paulo, was a stone's throw away from Avenida Paulista, the 5th Avenue of Sao Paulo. The houses in the neighborhood were largely high rises interspersed with a few traditional Portuguese homes.
We started our discovery of Brazil by eating at the street market (Err.. fuel for the soul ofcourse!). We had wonderfully refreshing fresh-squeezed sugar cane juice (just like India!) and pastels filled with chicken and a cheese called catupiry (very mild cream cheese) and a very nice flan type milk sweet.
We then kicked off by taking the train to the city centre, Se. By the way, a point to note here - if you think Sao Paulo, the financial capital of Brazil will have a good English speaking population, you will be sorely disappointed, like us! Only the hotel concierge spoke English!! But, I have to say, they are extremely helpful and do try to understand us as best as they can. We got through the entire weekend with hand signals and a lot of patience on all sides!
Back to Se now. The subway (same trains as NYC but the system was sooooo CLEAN!!!)dropped us right at Praca de Se where the Cathedral Se is. Obviously, a relic of the Portuguese era, it was beautiful with fresh flowers all along the aisle (we quite could not figure out if that was usual or whether they were preparing for a wedding service. Obviously asking was ruled out!). Interesting thing about the church; there were no real candles!! There were only plastic, electric ones. You could purchase a token for R$0.50 and an electric candle would light up!
The Cathedral was really the only pretty thing in the area. We walked on through the many streets in the area past street demonstrations, stinking public areas where bums and the homeless camped, unauthorised vendors hawking their wares on cobbled streets to Pátio do Colégio, where the city was born when Padre José de Anchieta set up a strict missionary school.The other must-see spot, according to New York Times, in the city was the Mercardo Municipal (municipal market). In my opinion, it is definitely worth a MISS! First of all, it wasn't easy to find. We got lost many times among streets overflowing with debris, garbage and rotting produce in sketchy areas, many misguided directions surely lost in translation! Then, when we finally reached it, it was anything but spectacular; it was just a produce market with stalls selling fresh fruit, meat and local food (more pastels and Brazilian favorite Spanish bologna!).
After that lacklustre tour of the city, we returned to the hotel to cool our feet and find a nice Brazilian place for dinner. You would think that in a major city like Sao Paulo, there would be a nice place featuring traditional Brazilian cuisine. As it turned out, we were very mistaken in our desire! The only Brazilian place was a Churrascaria and unending red-meat indulgence was not appealing at the time.
So we settled on Argentinian (S. American after all!), which, turned out great. Except for the mountains of food that we innocently ordered! Gawd! Each portion was of triple-size. But they had great sangria and we got to try Brazil's trademark liqour, Cachaça made from sugar cane. Basically, it tastes like very strong whisky.Back at the hotel, we crashed for a couple of hours before heading off for our sun-rise flight to Rio. Flight on time and a short cab ride later we landed at our very over-priced, under-par hotel, Premier Copacabana, with an annoyingly sales-y concierge who kept trying to sell us a hotel tour at $90!!! As the name indicates it was very close to Rio's infamous Copacabana beach.
Rio was nice and way better than Sao Paulo. In hindsight, we should have spent the entire weekend in Rio! Am sure we would have had a much better time.

One of the must-see (and this time, it really is :) ) sights in Rio is Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) is a peak on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean. To reach the top, we took two cable cars (One can also climb up but well that was way too technical for us). The view of Rio from up-top was simply fantastic; The whole expanse of the sea and the graceful neckline of Rio's beaches. The mountain faces the famous statue of Christ the Redeemer, located at the peak of Corcovado mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park. We spent quite a while here just taking in the lovely views and basking in its contrast to the sights of the previous day!
The highlight of the whole weekend was what we did next - Hang Gliding!!! One of our friends (we were 4) suggested it and boy, were we glad for it?! It was the first time for the husband and me up in the air. After the initial "Oh God, save me" reaction when the feet feels nothing beneath, it was the most exhilarating experience I have ever had! It really felt like a bird, gliding easily over the hills, trees, houses, dinner party-ers, beach and the sea......
For dinner, we settled on a little restaurant in Santa Teresa, Espirit Santa, that specialised in Amazonian sea food. Our hotel concierge (not the same one as before) was very helpful with directions but warned us to take a taxi to and fro and not stray in the area as he quite frankly didn't like the place. As it turned out, it was quite a quaint place atop a hill reached by a winding cobbled roadway. The restaurant itself was lovely. We were seated in the courtyard under the stars and the lovely night sky. The food was really good - light and flavorful. We even tasted Piranha!
Back at the hotel, we literally crashed, overwhelmed by two consecutive nights of little sleep and many hours on our feet. We had just about two hours on our last day in Rio before heading back to Sao Paulo. We spent that walking on the beach and discovering a little military encampment in the hope of walking though the rain forest (which didn't happen but the military guys were really sweet!).
We were then back in Sao Paulo for a couple of hours of sightseeing before heading to the airport for our flight back to NY, which in itself was an adventure! These last two hours were the best Sao Paulo showed us; a lovely park in the city Parque Trianon, a walk along Avenida Paulista and coffee at a nice Tahitian coffee place! I had a Hula Hula Strawberry Espresso that was potent yet sweet; very nice!Then began our adventure to get to the airport. Our flight out of Sao Paulo was at 9:05 pm. In the many times we had commuted from and to the airport, it had taken us 40-45 minutes to travel. With that number in mind, we hailed a taxi at 6:20 pm from the heart of the city. At 6:35 pm, we have moved a kilo meter. 6:50 another and so it went. We had not accounted for rush hour traffic! It was the worst I have ever seen in my entire life. It was worse than trying to get in to NYC on a Saturday night! And, as luck would have it, our cab driver was the very conservative type who stuck to rules and made no attempt to make his own road!!
We were quite sure we were not going to make it. By some divine intervention, we managed to peel away from the traffic and made it to the airport at 8:00 pm, 5 minutes before check-in closed! There was a long line waiting at the counters and we weren't very optimistic again. But again, Lady luck decided to favor us. We found out that my husband was an elite member and that opened many doors in the nick of time!
We reached NYC safely and on time. Looking back on the weekend, I wouldn't say it was anything extra-ordinary. It was get-away but almost everything can be found much closer to home. I say almost because perhaps one of the most enjoyable moments in Brazil was guzzling down some refreshing fresh fruit juices! Fresh fruit juice stands were a dime a dozen in both Sao Paulo and Rio with an array of tropical fruits to choose from that we were familiar with in India and not available in the US like custard apple (Seethaphal)!!
All in all, it was fun weekend with friends. But, for the price, there are definitely better locations in the world. And, if you are going to Brazil, I would recommend spending a lot more time in Rio and skipping Sao Paulo altogether!
















